Earth Support Corp

Basement lowering for builders and general contractors, from rowhouses to commercial buildings.

Underpinning & Basement Lowering

We underpin existing foundations for builders, general contractors and developers (rowhouses, triple-deckers, multifamily and commercial buildings) when a basement is lowered, a neighbor digs deeper, or new loads come on. Pit-and-pour goes in by hand in the engineer's hit-and-miss sequence; micropiles take over where pits cannot reach good bearing. We work under the builder's or GC's contract, never homeowner-direct, and bid the underpinning sub scope only.

Cross-section

Schematic elevation of pit-and-pour underpinning under an existing basement wall, dug and concreted in a hit-and-miss sequence.An illustrative elevation along an existing masonry basement wall and its footing. Below the footing, a row of seven underpinning pits runs along the wall, each typically 3 to 5 feet wide, carried from the underside of the footing down past a new, lower basement floor level to bear on glacial till. The pits are dug in a hit-and-miss order of three passes: first every third pit, then the next set, then the last, so no two adjacent pits are ever open at the same time. The first- and second-pass pits are shown concreted, with a thin band of dry-pack grout rammed between the new concrete and the old footing. The two third-pass pits are shown open, with timber boards retaining the soil, each one between two concreted pits. A dashed line marks the new floor level, which is dug out after the last pit is packed. Subsurface bands from top to bottom are urban fill, glacial till, and argillite bedrock. Schematic only, not to scale, pending professional-engineer review.Urban FillGlacial TillArgillite / Bedrock
Schematic — illustrative, not for construction; pending PE review.

Callouts

Select a numbered part below to read what it is and what it does.

Typical spec

Plain-language view of the same typical ranges.

How wide each pit is
3–5 ft, often 4 ft
The length of wall dug out from under at one time.Set by the engineer from wall load, footing strength and ground; the footing must span the open pit.
What order the pits go in
Hit-and-miss; no two adjacent pits open
Never two neighboring pits open at the same time.Hit-and-miss (e.g. three passes); adjacent pits wait for concrete and dry-pack cure per the specification.
The tight fit at the top
≈ 2–3 in., rammed non-shrink grout
The gap rammed full so the old footing sits hard on the new concrete.Zero-slump non-shrink grout rammed after the pit concrete sets; no load transfer across a shrinkage gap.
Plain or reinforced
Mass, or reinforced with dowels
Reinforced when the pit also holds back soil or goes deep.Mass concrete for vertical load transfer; reinforce, dowel or key adjacent pits where the underpinning retains soil or resists sliding and overturning.
What the pit sits on
Per the engineer's design
The ground the engineer says is firm enough to carry the wall.Bearing stratum and allowable pressure per the geotechnical report; bottoms checked before concrete.
When pits can't reach
Micropiles, 5–12 in. diameter
Small drilled piles carry the load down instead.Micropiles grouted into till or rock; load transferred by bracket, needle beam or new cap.

How it goes in

  1. 01

    Survey and number the pits

    Before anything is dug, the building and its neighbors get a condition survey and monitoring points. The engineer's drawings set the pit widths and number them in a hit-and-miss order, so no two neighboring pits are ever open together.

  2. 02

    Dig one pit

    A pit about 3 to 5 ft wide is hand-dug under the existing footing, down to the bearing the engineer calls for, with timber shoring as the ground needs. The footing spans over the open pit on the supported ground to either side.

  3. 03

    Check the bottom, then pour

    The bottom is checked against the design bearing before concrete goes in, typically by the engineer or inspector. Concrete is placed, with dowels or keys to the next pit where the design calls for them, stopping 2 to 3 in. short of the old footing.

  4. 04

    Dry-pack the gap

    Once the concrete has set, stiff non-shrink dry-pack is rammed into the gap so the footing bears tight on the new concrete, with no shrinkage gap left to settle into.

  5. 05

    Work through the sequence

    The next pit in the numbered order opens only after the pits beside it are concreted, packed and cured. When the last pit is packed, the GC lowers the floor and pours the new slab.

Pit-and-pour

Pit-and-pour, in the engineer's sequence

Most basement lowering under Boston rowhouses and triple-deckers is done with pit-and-pour: the existing wall is carried down, one short pit at a time, to a bearing below the new floor. It needs no rig inside the building, and the sequence is what keeps the wall supported while it happens.

  • The hit-and-miss sequence

    The engineer numbers the pits so no two neighbors are ever open together. A common pattern is three passes: every third pit, then the next set, then the last. Each open pit has concrete or undisturbed ground on both sides, and the footing spans across it.

  • Pit widths

    Typically 3 to 5 ft along the wall, often 4 ft, set by the engineer from the wall load, the footing and the ground. Narrower where the ground is poor or the load is concentrated.

  • Dry-pack

    Concrete stops 2 to 3 in. below the old footing. Once it has set, stiff non-shrink dry-pack is rammed into the gap, so the footing bears tight on new concrete instead of on a shrinkage gap.

  • Mass or reinforced pits

    Mass concrete pits carry the wall load straight down and suit most lowering. Reinforced pits, doweled or keyed to their neighbors, come in when the underpinning also retains soil beside the lowered floor, goes deep, or has to resist sliding and overturning.

Pits or micropiles

When micropiles beat pits

Pits are the plain, economical answer when good ground is a few feet below the footing. When it is not, micropiles (pin piles) carry the wall down to till or rock instead.

Pit-and-pour

Works best when

Good bearing is a few feet below the footing, in ground that stands up in a short pit.

Reaches

As deep as a hand-dug pit can safely go, usually a few feet below the old footing.

Water

Above the water table. A pit below it needs pumping, which is a problem in the GCOD.

Access

Hand tools, shoring boards and a way to get concrete in. No rig inside the building.

Pricing

In our price book. See the rates.

Micropiles (pin piles)

Works best when

Bearing is deep, the ground is soft or wet, or the building stands on timber piles.

Reaches

Through fill and clay into glacial till, or a socket in rock.

Water

Drilled and grouted without lowering the water table.

Access

A compact drill and room to set it up. Access is confirmed on a site walk before pricing.

Pricing

Priced per job. Micropiles & pin piles.

The engineer of record makes the call. Where both could work, pits usually cost less; micropiles buy depth, dry drilling and low vibration.

Neighbors and ground

Party walls, timber piles and the GCOD

Party walls and the building next door

In a rowhouse block, the wall you are lowering is often a party wall carrying half of your neighbor's building. Underpinning it means working under their load as well as yours, so the sequence, the monitoring and the paperwork all have to include them.

Before work starts: their written agreement for access and any work under their side, a condition survey with photos, and monitoring points they have seen. During the work: readings on the engineer's schedule and a clear action level. The guide to excavating next to a neighbor covers notice, access and what to put in writing.

Timber piles and the GCOD

Much of Back Bay, the South End and Boston's other filled land stands on timber piles. They last while they stay under water and rot once the groundwater drops and air reaches them, which is why the city drew the Groundwater Conservation Overlay District (GCOD) around them.

That shapes underpinning two ways. A building on timber piles usually cannot be underpinned with ordinary pits, because its load sits on the piles, not the soil; the fix is engineered, often with micropiles. And pits or pumping that lower groundwater near a neighbor's timber piles are exactly what Article 32 asks a project to rule out. Building below grade in the GCOD explains the rule, and you can check an address against the district map.

Monitoring

  • A condition survey of your building and the neighbors before work starts: photos, crack mapping, and anything already moving.
  • Survey points on the walls being underpinned, read before, during and after, on the engineer's schedule.
  • Crack gauges on existing cracks, and vibration monitoring when anything nearby is drilled or broken out.
  • Observation wells in the GCOD, where the design has to show groundwater holds.
  • Alert and action levels from the engineer. Past an action level, the next pit waits until the engineer directs the next step.

Instruments and readings are by others unless our quote includes them; we build the sequence around them.

Underpinning around Boston

To price it

What we need, and what it costs

What we need to price your underpinning

Drawings

  • Architectural and structural drawings showing the new floor level
  • The engineer's underpinning details: pit widths, sequence, depth and reinforcing

Ground

  • Borings or test pits near the walls, with the groundwater level
  • The existing footings: what they are and how deep they sit, where known

Scope

  • How far the floor is being lowered, and the length of wall to underpin
  • Which walls are party walls, and the neighbor agreements in place

Access

  • How concrete gets in and spoil gets out: doors, bulkheads, window wells
  • Working hours, occupancy, and the permit number

What it costs

Pit-and-pour is in our published unit price book three ways: by the cubic yard of concrete, per pit, and per foot of wall. Depth below the footing, access, groundwater and obstructions move the number most. The interior dig, the new slab and drainage are usually by others.

The underpinning cost guide walks through what drives the price, and the budget estimator covers the shoring and other scopes that often come with it.

From the unit price book

Rev 1 · valid through December 13, 2026

  • Pit-and-pour underpinning, per CY of concrete

    UP-PIT-POUR

    $4,550 (budget figure)per CY

    range $3,550–6,450 · min $8,900

  • Per pit

    About 4 ft wide segment, to about 4 ft below the existing footing

    UP-PIT-POUR-EA

    $8,900 (budget figure)each

    range $7,000–12,500 · min $8,900

  • Per foot of underpinned wall

    For estimating from the wall plan

    UP-PIT-POUR-LF

    $2,200 (budget figure)per LF

    range $1,700–3,100 · min $8,900

  • Micropiles and pin piles

    Where pits cannot reach good bearing

    Priced per job

Typical price with the book's low–high range. Low end: open site, repetitive work, good ground, larger quantities. High end: tight access, obstructions, variable ground, small quantities.

† Budget figure. Depends strongly on ground and configuration; confirm with a firm quote.

Budget and bid-day numbers. Send drawings and borings for a firm, line-item quote within 3 business days.

Full price bookBudget estimator

Where it fits

  • Basement lowering in rowhouses, triple-deckers and multifamily buildings
  • Party walls beside a new, deeper excavation next door
  • Footings carried below a new pit, trench or lower slab beside them
  • New loads on an existing foundation: added floors, new openings
  • Arresting settlement in older masonry buildings
  • Commercial and institutional retrofits, under contract to the GC

Frequently asked

Related projects

Illustrative tear sheets — example case studies pending verification.

Ready to scope your foundation?

Tell us about the project and we'll put together a detailed quote within 3 days. We generally work with general contractors.

Or email plans to bids@earthsupportcorp.com

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